5
It is not surprising that Mugaritz splits opinion. Before arriving, my wife and I had read the reviews on both sides of the spectrum. Unlike a “traditional” Michelin experience where your experience is already boosted by your very high expectations, we were in a genuinely open mindset and ready to be wowed or indeed deeply disappointed.
We were wowed. The movement through the restaurant’s outside space into the beautiful dining room and the visit to the kitchen only added to the theatre. The brief hiatus to play a card game with fellow diners was also a brilliant way to keep energy high in the 4.5 hour experience.
The food - the star of the show - was almost universally delicious, with most dishes being an absolute knockout, and those that weren’t on the taste buds were on the brain. This is the opposite of a hearty stew. The menu challenges you to think, savour, and experiment - including with how you eat, the majority of which is done with your hands. The wine (/cider/mead/sake/sherry) pairings were exceptional.
A superb evening we will remember forever, and right up there with the Fat Duck in experiential dining.