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“River Café, Calgary” — An Unexpectedly Disappointing Dining Experience
During our brief four-day getaway to Calgary and the Canadian Rockies, my wife and I spent our first day leisurely exploring downtown Calgary with close friends of several decades. The evening concluded with what we had anticipated would be a memorable fine-dining experience at the acclaimed River Café.
Unfortunately, the experience proved memorable for all the wrong reasons.
Our party of four opted for the five-course tasting menu, expecting the level of refinement and execution typically associated with one of Calgary’s most celebrated dining institutions. Instead, the meal ranged from merely above average to, at times, simply decent. While the dishes showcased an ambitious array of ingredients — some uncommon and intriguing — many felt overly busy in presentation and lacked harmony in both texture and flavour. Several courses came across as more conceptually interesting than genuinely satisfying.
Service throughout the evening was warm, polished, and professional. However, the pacing of the meal was exceptionally drawn out. A five-course dinner stretching beyond three hours became less of a leisurely culinary journey and more of a test of patience. One particularly lengthy delay of over 25 minutes appeared to result in a rushed subsequent course, with the pasta arriving noticeably undercooked and unpleasantly chewy.
Considering the dinner exceeded $200 per person, the overall experience fell well short of expectations. In a rather telling conclusion, the most memorable elements of the evening were the excellent sourdough bread and, perhaps, the chocolate dessert.
For a restaurant carrying such an esteemed reputation, the evening was ultimately a surprising and disappointing letdown.