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I took my wife out for dinner at DiverXO, the only restaurant in Madrid awarded three Michelin stars and currently ranked No. 4 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Chef Dabiz Muñoz is a celebrity in his own right, with a Netflix documentary that reflects his approach to cooking. I’ve always admired his belief in himself and his pursuit of excellence in craft and creativity.
From the moment you walk in, the experience is immersive. Giant ants crawl down the stairwell, paper butterflies and books line the walls and even the toilets, and flying pigs are mounted throughout the space. There’s meaning behind it. Someone once told him that if he ever became a chef, pigs would fly. Today, it feels like a reflection of how far he has come.
The meal was close to 16 courses. Each dish came with illustrated notes explaining the ingredients and preparation, serving as a visual and intellectual prelude before each bite. The dishes were also presented on custom-designed plates, enhancing the overall experience. Guests can bring the sketches home, which adds a thoughtful touch.
Many of the dishes draw from his travels across Asia. The first course was inspired by Singapore, his interpretation of laksa. He wasn’t trying to recreate Katong laksa, but express it through his own lens, and it worked. The flavours were bold, layered, and harmonious. The pairing of Dongpo pork with laksa was unexpected but very well executed.
There was also his take on shark’s fin, using a broth built over days. Across the menu, you can trace influences from Bangkok to Japan. I also particularly enjoyed the mochi.
For European diners, the menu likely feels fresh and exciting. For someone familiar with Asian cuisine, I approached it with an open mind. While reinterpretations can be hit or miss, his stands out and feels deserving of the three stars.
Beyond the artistic presentation, the food speaks for itself. Bright, layered flavours with a lean towards citrus and acidity, especially in the broths.
Overall, a very enjoyable and memorable dining experience. My only regret was not meeting Chef Dabiz Muñoz, who had left earlier to be with his newborn.
