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A work of art, without disappearing up its own jus!
I have been looking for a new favourite one-star lunch spot ever since Launceston Place closed and, after this lunch, I think I have finally found it.
Pavyllon has a fabulous location inside the Four Seasons on Park Lane, but the kitchen counter is where you really want to sit. You are right in the middle of the action and get all the theatre of a world-class kitchen without ever feeling as though you are in the way.
The food was stupendous. The Comté soufflé, beef fillet and spicy affogato were all beautifully judged, technically brilliant and, most importantly, properly enjoyable. Some Michelin-starred restaurants can occasionally seem more interested in impressing themselves than feeding you. Pavyllon manages to produce food that is genuinely exciting without disappearing up its own jus.
The service was out of this world. Warm, knowledgeable, attentive and funny, without ever becoming stiff or overbearing. Massive thanks to the entire team and a special shout out to the amazing sommelier, M (don't know if she wants her full name shared here). She guided us brilliantly through the wine and was especially gracious while putting up with a sustained outbreak of my Shanter with far more good humour than it deserved.
What Benjamin and his team have created is a work of art. In the current inflationary times, the set lunch is also exquisite value for cooking and service at this level. I will most definitely be back.